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Straight from a Car Salesman (tips on buying, etc.) (Q/A)

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 Straight from a Car Salesman (tips on buying, etc.) (Q/A)
Unread 12-15-2012, 02:16 PMJoined Jun 2012 - away - #61
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Originally Posted by mrsolodolow81
I am interested in trading in my 07 LS Avalanche for a 2013 LTZ Avalanche. would it be foolish to do this considering that Chevy is going to discontinue the Avalanche after 2013?....or any vehicle model that is or will be discontinued?
I wont say its foolish if you really like the vehicle buy it. I would just let you know if you get 13 and it gets discontinued the value will take a hit once they stop making it. If you plan on keeping the truck 6-7 years then it wont be a big deal. If you like to get a new car every 2-3 years i def wouldnt do it. Also the longer you wait to get the 13 the better deal you can get because dealers will be looking to get rid of them
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Unread 01-05-2013, 09:00 PMJoined Jul 2006 - away - #62
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what yall opinion on a 2008 mazda 6 with 36,000 miles on it. no accidents, 2 owners. one only put bout 16,000 miles on it in 3 years and the other owner put the rest on it in bout a year and 2 months months.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 02:51 PMJoined Mar 2008 - away - #63
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Am looking to upgrade from an 08 impala to the new 14 impala. I still owe 9g's on it and it has 82,000 milies on it. I don't have the best credit, but I have decent job and make just over 50 a year. I figure before interest and warranties I can pay 400-500 a month.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 12:55 AMJoined Dec 2008 - away - #64
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So let's say the advertised price for a used car is $12,000, how much should you realistically try to talk them down? I'm trying to get something like a 2007 or 2008 Cadillac STS or Lincoln MKZ. I see different price ranges, but you should never settle for the advertised sticker price right? First car I ever bought was a 3 year old Nissan Altima and my brother's best friend got 2k knocked off the asking price. What should I try to do?
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Unread 07-15-2013, 07:44 PMJoined Oct 2011 - away - #65
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^^This same scenario different car.

Looking to buy the Camaro 12 or 2013 SS. I have 10% down payment (I heard this is the normal to have for a low car note) of the asking price of two in mind. One is the 2012 $32K with 7K miles. the other is the 2011 $26K with 34K miles on it. Want the 2012 bc of the color and lower miles. Is there a way to get let's say $5k off of the 2012 Camaro??? btw both are 2SS's.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 01:36 PMJoined Dec 2008 - away - #66
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Good thread. Been lookin at the some cadillacs and thinkin about leasing one of the sedans. I would be a first timer too. Credit aint the greatest. What can I expect and how much bread should i bring?
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Unread 11-09-2013, 12:58 AMJoined Jun 2004 - away - #67
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Originally Posted by GrownmanJ
Good thread. Been lookin at the some cadillacs and thinkin about leasing one of the sedans. I would be a first timer too. Credit aint the greatest. What can I expect and how much bread should i bring?
yeah, same boat, been looking at Lacs...

got cash on hand but gonna use some of it to clear a few things off my credit then try to have a few Gs in cash for the down payment and to pay all of the fees or whatever so these fu*kas won't try to r*pe me

cadillacs have gotten so s3xy the last decade...that deville/DTS is what I think I'm going to get
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Unread 12-14-2013, 01:13 AMJoined Apr 2004 - away - #68
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Been in the business for a few years best advice I can give is to shop on the last day of the month. Every dealership has goals and if you walk in on the last day of the month I promise you will get a better deal. After going over pricing for a few minutes get up and walk out they will hop up and start cutting the price even more.
Know the value of your trade!!! Do a kelly blue book search and NADA because if you don't know you will get fu*ked!
The best advice I can give is go to truecar.com put in the info on the car you want and true car will give you the dealers invoice price which is always thousands below the sticker price. True car will also give you the dealers hold back which is the money under invoice that the dealer has to hold back and still make a small profit. The best deal you can get at a dealer is to walk in with a print off from Truecar show the salesman after the test drive and let him know you want the invoice price and split the hold back amount with the dealer.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 08:43 AMJoined Oct 2010 - away - #69
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what do you guys think of warranties and i was honestly ready to cop a whip today i think imma wait now and see what kind of finance rate my bank can get me
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Unread 01-25-2014, 10:57 AMJoined May 2012 - on now - #70
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can someone go over the benefits and cons of 2 year lease as oppose to buying a car to own
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Unread 05-28-2014, 08:41 PMJoined Mar 2006 - away - #71
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Originally Posted by daviw1024
I used to work at a big chevy dealership here in Daygo.....best advice I can give is once you deal and haggle for a minute actually get up and leave the showroom acting like you are over it and about to leave......easy 1-2k off base price
I sell BMWs and there are a couple of things i see regularly that if you avoid you will come out better off when you buy a car. First, buy a car you can afford, by that I mean if you want a 2012 5 Series that is on my lot for 34k, and i show you a monthly payment of 550 for 72 months and you need to put 5k down to get the car in a payment range you can afford, guess what, you cannot afford the car. Next piece of advice if you are currently in a car, if you can afford to, pay more than your monthly payment each month to your bank, this will counter act the interest the bank is charging you for loaning you money. Third, unless the bank requires you to put money down to approve the loan, dont do it, thats just straight profit for the dealership. Fourth piece of advice is, if you are purchasing a new luxury vehicle, if you arent a person who drives 20k miles a year. dont purchase it, lease it. by leasing you in the case of bmws, will always be in warranty (4yrs or 50k miles) where your maintenance to include oil changes, battery, windshield wipers etc is paid for. The last piece of advice is, if you can wait til the last week of the month to purchase a car, most General Managers are in a full court press at this point to get end of month numbers up and will make a lot of "this price, today only" type deals to where they will go down to the break even point on a car to make a deal happen. Sorry being long but these are the things I see on a daily basis.
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Unread 07-22-2014, 09:58 PMJoined Jan 2005 - away - #72
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Originally Posted by bigmac2g
I sell BMWs and there are a couple of things i see regularly that if you avoid you will come out better off when you buy a car. First, buy a car you can afford, by that I mean if you want a 2012 5 Series that is on my lot for 34k, and i show you a monthly payment of 550 for 72 months and you need to put 5k down to get the car in a payment range you can afford, guess what, you cannot afford the car. Next piece of advice if you are currently in a car, if you can afford to, pay more than your monthly payment each month to your bank, this will counter act the interest the bank is charging you for loaning you money. Third, unless the bank requires you to put money down to approve the loan, dont do it, thats just straight profit for the dealership. Fourth piece of advice is, if you are purchasing a new luxury vehicle, if you arent a person who drives 20k miles a year. dont purchase it, lease it. by leasing you in the case of bmws, will always be in warranty (4yrs or 50k miles) where your maintenance to include oil changes, battery, windshield wipers etc is paid for. The last piece of advice is, if you can wait til the last week of the month to purchase a car, most General Managers are in a full court press at this point to get end of month numbers up and will make a lot of "this price, today only" type deals to where they will go down to the break even point on a car to make a deal happen. Sorry being long but these are the things I see on a daily basis.
Good advice. I just bought a vehicle today, no money down which made the dealer cut more off the price to close the deal. Also If you need 72 months at all you can't afford it.
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Unread 07-23-2014, 04:23 PMJoined May 2012 - away - #73
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I sold cars briefly (only like 3 months), but I concur with almost everything the BMW salesman above me said. I would say you should have money set aside for a down payment just in case you need it for approval. Also, having a down payment upfront helps offset the equity hit the car will take immediately once it's driven off the lot.

A good formula I was shown to estimate what monthly payments would be is to take the price of the car, divide by 1,000, then multiply by 20. That gives you a nice ballpark figure for monthly payments. Of course, your actual monthly payment will depend on several factors: credit rating, term length, down payment, etc.

Last edited by Bravo Golf; 07-23-2014 at 04:25 PM..
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Unread 07-23-2014, 04:32 PMJoined May 2012 - away - #74
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Originally Posted by CaLis LEGACY
can someone go over the benefits and cons of 2 year lease as oppose to buying a car to own
This is an old post, but I'll take a crack at it anyway.

Leasing a vehicle is the option to go with if you only plan on keeping the car for less than four years. When leasing, you're paying the difference between the present-day price and the price the car is expected to be worth at the end of the leasing term. At the end of a lease, you have the option to turn the car back in and walk away or keep the car by transforming the lease into a buy.

The downside to leasing is that you have to stay within per year mileage level and customizing the car (rims, stereos, paint, tint, etc.) is usually off limits or severely limited.
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Unread 07-24-2014, 02:49 PMJoined Sep 2006 - away - #75
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Originally Posted by Bravo Golf
I sold cars briefly (only like 3 months), but I concur with almost everything the BMW salesman above me said. I would say you should have money set aside for a down payment just in case you need it for approval. Also, having a down payment upfront helps offset the equity hit the car will take immediately once it's driven off the lot.

A good formula I was shown to estimate what monthly payments would be is to take the price of the car, divide by 1,000, then multiply by 20. That gives you a nice ballpark figure for monthly payments. Of course, your actual monthly payment will depend on several factors: credit rating, term length, down payment, etc.

True, but I wouldn't advise putting money down unless it's absolutely necessary to get approved. Like BMW said above, that money is straight profit for the dealer, especially if your credit is good. The money will help offset the negative equity, but at the end of the day, the car is gonna lose value regardless. I'd rather keep that money in my pocket or give it to the bank after I've taken delivery.
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Unread 09-13-2014, 09:12 AMJoined Sep 2008 - away - #76
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have been in sale for 7 years and I find that people are not honest because they think we are playing games.

If you are in the market for a car the best way to get a deal is to do you reached. The internet has all the information you need. I find that too many people come in to buy a car and act like they know everything but they know nothing.

If you follow this and some of the things that have already been mentioned like ( look at cars you can afford) will save you time and aggravation.
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Unread 10-01-2014, 08:49 PMJoined May 2004 - away - #77
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Anybody here sell audis? Im trying to get my hands on a a7 tdi either black or cocaine white
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Unread 11-08-2014, 03:45 PMJoined Jan 2011 - away - #78
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Originally Posted by ima80baby
True, but I wouldn't advise putting money down unless it's absolutely necessary to get approved. Like BMW said above, that money is straight profit for the dealer, especially if your credit is good. The money will help offset the negative equity, but at the end of the day, the car is gonna lose value regardless. I'd rather keep that money in my pocket or give it to the bank after I've taken delivery.

what if you have good credit, but don't want high monthly payments so you put down half of the sticker price plus trade in from other car and finance the rest?
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Unread 12-10-2014, 09:15 AMJoined Feb 2006 - away - #79
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Originally Posted by pootysmack
what if you have good credit, but don't want high monthly payments so you put down half of the sticker price plus trade in from other car and finance the rest?
Thats not a bad idea. The idea of putting no money down is great for the dealership, terrible for the consumer. By financing $50k instead of only $25k they are going to make more in the reserve portion if you finance through the dealership. When you have a large down payment, they arent making as much on the reserve so they cant cut the asking price as much. Many times they store will lose money on the actual car (front end) and make the money on the financing, warranties, etc (back end). So if you come in pre-financed from a credit union, for half of the car and you are putting down the rest, they arent going to cut you a deal on the car, they have to make that $$$ someway, these stores don't operate for free.

This is not to say that warranties are a scam, or not necessary. They are insurance policies, almost all coverage's sold are owned by another company.

Also, for all of you out there looking to purchase a car with $0, or very little down. BUY GAP INSURANCE!!!! there are toooooo many people who suffer a total loss 3-4 years into owning a car and are on the hook for an extra 5-8k after their car is totaled.
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Unread 01-28-2015, 11:32 PMJoined Sep 2014 - away - #80
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Originally Posted by Sental
Been in the business for a few years best advice I can give is to shop on the last day of the month. Every dealership has goals and if you walk in on the last day of the month I promise you will get a better deal. After going over pricing for a few minutes get up and walk out they will hop up and start cutting the price even more.
Know the value of your trade!!! Do a kelly blue book search and NADA because if you don't know you will get fu*ked!
The best advice I can give is go to truecar.com put in the info on the car you want and true car will give you the dealers invoice price which is always thousands below the sticker price. True car will also give you the dealers hold back which is the money under invoice that the dealer has to hold back and still make a small profit. The best deal you can get at a dealer is to walk in with a print off from Truecar show the salesman after the test drive and let him know you want the invoice price and split the hold back amount with the dealer.
I like this advice, I will use it to buy my next car. Thanks
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