b18b1 turbo kit

**young jeezy478** · 11-02-2009, 09:32 AM

i got a 98 integra ls, stock motor with a couple bolt on parts, i want to boost it to about 17 psi and i want 350 hp out of this motor...im new to all this turbo stuff an boosting and need a break down of what i need to get started. my budget is 1300.00

**markee** · 11-02-2009, 10:07 AM

Upgrade clutch, fuel injectors, fuel rail and ECU to compensate for the power. With all that aside...get ready to spend hours and hours of tuning.

**Bman409** · 11:01 AM

Originally Posted by young jeezy478

i got a 98 integra ls, stock motor with a couple bolt on parts, i want to boost it to about 17 psi and i want 350 hp out of this motor...im new to all this turbo stuff an boosting and need a break down of what i need to get started. my budget is 1300.00

First thing you need to know is how a turbo works, its pointless to get into a boosted application and not know how it works. The main and biggest thing in having forced induction cars is tuning. You can get all the biggest and baddest parts on earth but without a proper tune your gonna blow your motor up.

How many miles you got right now? Cause if you got a lot miles you might wanna re-build the motor for turbo cause running a lot of boost on a poorly maintained motor is useless, thats just asking for a blown motor.

You said you want to run about 17psi? Well if you plan on getting that much boost then your gonna have to sleeve your block for it handle that much power. You could run 10psi all day long on a stock LS with a proper tune.

$1300 should get you a turbo kit, a nice one with all the required parts to run. Turbo, turbo manifold, intercooler, intercooling piping, fuel injectors, BOV (blow off valve), dump tube, down pipe, oil lines, fuel rail, etc. there's a lot of parts. Then your gonna have to cop guages, boost gauge and a AFR (air fuel ratio) wideband gauge are really the only ones you need the most.

Your definitely gonna have to upgrade your clutch, the OEM one should be able to hold about 300 hp with a stage 1 disc. Also, once your gonna have to put about 4.5 qts of motor oil since your turbo is gonna be using oil as well. Synthetic oil at that.

One thing about going turbo is that your gonna be spending a lot of money and a lot of tuning. TUNE TUNE TUNE is what you basically need to focus on once you get it up and running. You need to have the tune based off the AFR (air fuel ratio).

The reason why I know is cause I have a '01 turbo Integra myself running on 5psi @ around 70k miles on the block/chassis. Here are some photos I've posted recently:
Tune up for 02 rsx
Tune up for 02 rsx

Originally Posted by markee

Upgrade clutch, fuel injectors, fuel rail and ECU to compensate for the power. With all that aside...get ready to spend hours and hours of tuning.

He doesn't have to upgrade his ECU he's basically gonna have to downgrade to a OBD1 ECU with a proper tune from HONDATA, Chrome, etc.

**diplo** · 11:41 AM

My brother ran his B18B with a 50 trim and an 8lb spring in the wastegate with no issues.

You don't need an upgraded ECU. You can use a socketed P06, P28, P75, PR4, P72, P73, etc...chipped for non-VTEC with a basemap/fuelmap...use a jumper harness if you run into OBD plug issues. 98 I believe is OBD2 P75..

94-95 - P75-a01 OBD1
96-01 - OBD2 - possibly OBD2a/2b

Tune, tune, tune...

Also, oil line to turbo is most important. Don't be cheap. You can get a cheap 6 puck Ebay clutch and run into no issues.

**Bman409** · 12:24 PM

Now that I think about it you probbably could get up to 300hp or near on 10psi.

Originally Posted by diplo

My brother ran his B18B with a 50 trim and an 8lb spring in the wastegate with no issues.

You don't need an upgraded ECU. You can use a socketed P06, P28, P75, PR4, P72, P73, etc...chipped for non-VTEC with a basemap/fuelmap...

Tune, tune, tune...

Also, oil line to turbo is most important. Don't be cheap. You can get a cheap 6 puck Ebay clutch and run into no issues.

x Bman409

I heard those eBay clutches be havin' a lot of chatter. You had any experiences with those?

**diplo** · 11-02-2009, 11:53 AM

^^^ I had a lot of chatter. I heard you should use your stock pressure plate. The Ebay pressure plates suck. The discs are good. I installed an Exedy stage 1 replacement and ran into the same issue my stage 2 XTD had.

I think it may have to do with the oversized NGK throwout bearing not fully disengaging the pressure plate from the disc.

**Bman409** · 12:23 PM

Originally Posted by diplo

^^^ I had a lot of chatter. I heard you should use your stock pressure plate. The Ebay pressure plates suck. The discs are good. I installed an Exedy stage 1 replacement and ran into the same issue my stage 2 XTD had.

I think it may have to do with the oversized NGK throwout bearing not fully disengaging the pressure plate from the disc.

Awww.. s**t man I dont want no chatter, is it really loud and noticable? I found a F1 stage 3 clutch kit on eBay with a Findanza flywheel for like $260 and was planning on copping it but wanted to do more research on them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=400082202734

I heard those XTD be having chatter never heard Exedy with chatter.

If it does then I might just stay OE and just cop a stage 1 Clutchmaster disc and see how that goes. I dont plan on tuning it anything soon.

**young jeezy478** · 11-02-2009, 12:44 PM

Originally Posted by Bman409

First thing you need to know is how a turbo works, its pointless to get into a boosted application and not know how it works. The main and biggest thing in having forced induction cars is tuning. You can get all the biggest and baddest parts on earth but without a proper tune your gonna blow your motor up.

How many miles you got right now? Cause if you got a lot miles you might wanna re-build the motor for turbo cause running a lot of boost on a poorly maintained motor is useless, thats just asking for a blown motor.

You said you want to run about 17psi? Well if you plan on getting that much boost then your gonna have to sleeve your block for it handle that much power. You could run 10psi all day long on a stock LS with a proper tune.

$1300 should get you a turbo kit, a nice one with all the required parts to run. Turbo, turbo manifold, intercooler, intercooling piping, fuel injectors, BOV (blow off valve), dump tube, down pipe, oil lines, fuel rail, etc. there's a lot of parts. Then your gonna have to cop guages, boost gauge and a AFR (air fuel ratio) wideband gauge are really the only ones you need the most.

Your definitely gonna have to upgrade your clutch, the OEM one should be able to hold about 300 hp with a stage 1 disc. Also, once your gonna have to put about 4.5 qts of motor oil since your turbo is gonna be using oil as well. Synthetic oil at that.

One thing about going turbo is that your gonna be spending a lot of money and a lot of tuning. TUNE TUNE TUNE is what you basically need to focus on once you get it up and running. You need to have the tune based off the AFR (air fuel ratio).

The reason why I know is cause I have a '01 turbo Integra myself running on 5psi @ around 70k miles on the block/chassis. Here are some photos I've posted recently:
Tune up for 02 rsx
Tune up for 02 rsx

He doesn't have to upgrade his ECU he's basically gonna have to downgrade to a OBD1 ECU with a proper tune from HONDATA, Chrome, etc.

i think im have to rebuild cuz my motor has 131000 miles and i dont know if the previous owner had any major problems out of the car, but i gave it a good look over and everything is good all the vin numbers match up on the motor and tranny, but if i boost 350 hp is my goal without any sacrafice to damage the motor, i seen kit on ebay for 800 to 1000 bucks, the garret turbo cost a lil too much for my budget,

**diplo** · 11-02-2009, 12:48 PM

You can run a stage 3 disc with the OEM pressure plate bro.

On my Civic you only heard it when it was raining. The chatter is the disc not fully disengaging, so the intermediary shaft spins..I believe the CV joints just click...never checked it out past the halfshaft..

Also if youre using the OEM pressure plate you can use an OEM throwout bearing. Buy some Supertech/Castrol high temp grease and smother it in it and the shaft it goes around.

**eljesserocks** · 11-02-2009, 12:49 PM

modding cars is a waste of money.

**diplo** · 11-02-2009, 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by young jeezy478

i think im have to rebuild cuz my motor has 131000 miles and i dont know if the previous owner had any major problems out of the car, but i gave it a good look over and everything is good all the vin numbers match up on the motor and tranny, but if i boost 350 hp is my goal without any sacrafice to damage the motor, i seen kit on ebay for 800 to 1000 bucks, the garret turbo cost a lil too much for my budget,

Ebay turbos suck..You can get a nice 50 trim ceramic turbo for cheap. It doesn't have to be brand new.

350HP won't be achieved without building the motor. Tops you'll see is 230-250HP before mechanical breakdown.

130K is fine. I've seen 170K motors run boost. Shop around for a turbo kit...ebay ones suck.

Better turbo = more HP/durability...less need to up the boost pressure for high HP...

**young jeezy478** · 11-02-2009, 12:52 PM

10 psi is good also Bman409, im not tryn to race it at a drag strip i just wanna have a daily driver with a lil extra get up for local competition, im not looking to do the whole motor over cause if i did that id just swap it out for a b18c motor an go from there, and when you say tune you mean dyno test it or play around with the ecu to get a good air to fuel mix ratio,

**diplo** · 11-02-2009, 12:55 PM

^^ You can get a street tune for around $300-500. Got acouple heads out here (NY/NJ/CT) that do that.

You can get an official dyno tune for $400-1000.

You need a tune so that your making power most efficiently. Proper air/fuel mixture. Not insufficient or overexcessive fuel. That will lead to mechanical breakdown/detonation.

**young jeezy478** · 11-02-2009, 01:11 PM

i live in GA, in a small town and its very hard to get service out here like that, atlanta like 2 hours away for a local dyno run, but i kno a couple guys here that boost and tune also but they dont have a dyno

**diplo** · 11-02-2009, 01:17 PM

That sucks..yeah see if they'll do a street tune for you. Won't be the best, but it's better than blowing the motor off a stock fuelmap/basemap. Since you already have the motor, 800-1000 should be enough for a manifold, turbo, lines, custom exhaust, tune..

Go to ATL for the exhaust job. I got a guy up here that'll do custom exhausts for 50-100 bucks...spot welds for 25 bucks..

**Bman409** · 11-02-2009, 04:20 PM

17psi is like racing to me unless you talking about a small turbo? 50 trim on 17psi is like pretty medium high. If you even ran the car on 5psi it still will pick up nicely and that's Very low boost. I walk SRT4s on 5psi all day long.

I agree with everything Diplo stated as well. If you cheap out on the build don't expect it to run properly. We can't stress out how much tuning is vital to a boosted application. This takes time to achieve.

He could find a eBay turbo with Garrett internals but that'll be hard to find. If you do see a used turbo make sure it don't have any shaft play. Also external wastegate > internal wastegate.

Diplo those tuning prices are expensive! Down here I know like 3 shops that'll tune for like $200-$250 with a free dyno pull. Dunno why it's expensive up there.

Originally Posted by diplo

You can run a stage 3 disc with the OEM pressure plate bro.

On my Civic you only heard it when it was raining. The chatter is the disc not fully disengaging, so the intermediary shaft spins..I believe the CV joints just click...never checked it out past the halfshaft..

Also if youre using the OEM pressure plate you can use an OEM throwout bearing. Buy some Supertech/Castrol high temp grease and smother it in it and the shaft it goes around.

I think Ima try and do that cause I went to a clutch shop for more info and guy basically told me exactly what you said for the type of power I want to achieve.

**diplo** · 11-02-2009, 06:43 PM

It's rather funny I know these issues because I went through them. Clutch chatter can get annoying but you can deal with it.

The stock ceramic turbos that are on SR20s, 2JZ, 4G63t are good, but don't produce good power.

A Garrett turbo off the streets would be your best bet. Unless you want to pay $1300.

**young jeezy478** · 11-02-2009, 07:42 PM

i mean a dude next door to me has a twin turbo supra he races, he has a turbo for sale for my car but he want 2000 for it, and thats just the turbo and piping, and what is clutch chatter? i hate to sound like a freakin noob but dam i been wantin to boost a car for a while now, an now i bought a teggy just seems that dream is gettin further away the more i learn about it

**diplo** · 11-02-2009, 10:50 PM

Originally Posted by diplo

On my Civic you only heard it when it was raining. The chatter is the disc not fully disengaging, so the intermediary shaft spins..I believe the CV joints just click...never checked it out past the halfshaft..

^^ clutch chatter

Basically when you press the clutch pedal down, the throwout bearing doesn't fully disengage the pressure plate from the disc and it "sticks".

Well...at least on my car.

**boimannie2004** · 11:15 PM

Do yourself a favor and research on honda/acura forums first. I'll tell you right now, you might get 17psi running on your stock engine, but don't expect it to last for very long. Wouldn't want you to be carless. Some honda/acura guys say anything over 8psi is pushing it on a stock engine because they aren't made for power but economy. I do however think that the B18b1 is somewhat of an exception if I remember correctly.

Like it has been mentioned before, you will need to upgrade your fuel system, maybe your clutch depending on the amount of power getting put down. get your car tuned or it will run like crap, and if you do go turbo, MAKE SURE TO DO IT RIGHT and don't skimp on the important things or you will be without a car.

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b18b1 turbo kit

" i got a 98 integra ls, stock motor with a couple bolt on parts, i want to boost it to ... "